Which region to choose in Sardinia?
North or South

Sardinia stretches for about 270 km from north to south, and its mountain roads lengthen every journey: for a week or ten days, it is better to choose one area and settle in. The North plays on granite coves, the La Maddalena archipelago and Alghero; the South on Cagliari and the long beaches of Chia and Villasimius. In between, the east coast opens up a third, wilder option.

By The Dem-Tukki editorial team·Published 5 October 2026·Updated 5 October 2026·10 min read

This comparison is for those who have chosen Sardinia and are unsure where to base themselves. We distinguish the North-East (Gallura, Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena), the North-West (Alghero, Stintino, Asinara), the South (Cagliari, Villasimius, Chia, the Sulcis and Carloforte) and the east coast of the Gulf of Orosei, backed by the Barbagia. For each area: where to base yourself, the beaches, what needs booking and realistic driving times. The full portrait of the island is on our Sardinia page, and our selected addresses in Where to stay in Sardinia. Our final recommendation is clear-cut: it depends mainly on the season and on how much you enjoy walking.

🪨 The North-East: Gallura, the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena

Gallura is picture-postcard Sardinia: wind-sculpted granite boulders, narrow coves, very clear water. Olbia airport is its gateway, with the widest choice of flights in summer from many European cities, including in France and Switzerland. Porto Cervo, at the heart of the Costa Smeralda, is about thirty kilometres away, around 40 minutes by road; Palau, the departure port for the archipelago, about forty kilometres.

The La Maddalena archipelago national park is explored by boat: the ferry links Palau to La Maddalena in about a quarter of an hour, then licensed boat operators take you to Spargi, Budelli or Caprera. Budelli's Spiaggia Rosa can only be seen from the sea, and Cala Coticcio, on Caprera, can only be reached with a licensed guide, in small groups. Further south, Cala Brandinchi and Lu Impostu, in San Teodoro, require advance booking from June to September; so does the Rena Bianca at Santa Teresa Gallura in summer.

For accommodation, Palau and Cannigione are practical bases for the archipelago; San Teodoro suits families and mid-range budgets; Santa Teresa Gallura, livelier in the evening, looks across to Corsica. Porto Cervo and its surroundings remain the most expensive area of the island in summer. Inland, Tempio Pausania, Aggius or San Pantaleo offer agriturismi and granite stazzi, quieter than the coast and often cheaper.

🏰 The North-West: Alghero, Stintino and Asinara

Alghero is the North's real seaside town: ramparts facing the sea, a pedestrianised old town, fish restaurants and a Catalan dialect still in use. Alghero-Fertilia airport is only about 8 km away, making it the simplest base for a stay where the car is not needed every day. Capo Caccia and Neptune's Grotto, reached by boat or by a staircase of more than 650 steps, are close by.

About 55 km away, roughly fifty minutes by road, Stintino gives access to La Pelosa beach, with white sand and shallow water. From 15 May to 15 October, entry is by online booking with a day ticket, limited to 1,500 people, and a mat is compulsory under your towel. From Stintino, boats reach the park island of Asinara, which is closed to private cars, in 15 to 30 minutes: you explore it on foot, by bike or with licensed operators. From Porto Torres, the crossing takes about 1 hr 15 min.

This coast also lends itself to cultural stops: Castelsardo and its hilltop castle, Bosa and its colourful houses along the Temo, Sassari for a day in town. On the other hand, the maestrale often blows hard here and can cancel boat trips, and the beaches of the Riviera del Corallo are more open and less spectacular than the coves of Gallura. Alghero is about two hours by road from Olbia: combining the North-West and the North-East in one week is still possible, at the cost of changing hotels.

🏖️ The South: Cagliari, Villasimius, Chia and the Sulcis

Cagliari changes the picture: it is a genuine regional capital, lively all year round, with the hilltop Castello district, the National Archaeological Museum and the long urban beach of Poetto. Elmas airport is about 7 km away and linked to the centre by train. A base in the city lets you sightsee without a car for the first few days, then explore further afield. Su Nuraxi di Barumini, the nuraghe site on the UNESCO World Heritage list, can be visited as a day trip.

To the east, Villasimius, about an hour's drive away, lines up pale sandy beaches and the protected seabed of the Capo Carbonara marine area; access to Punta Molentis there is limited and requires booking in summer. To the west, Chia, about fifty kilometres away via Pula, strings together dunes, lagoons and coves; neighbouring Tuerredda, in the municipality of Teulada, is limited to 1,100 people a day from June to mid-October, by booking. The ruins of Nora, near Pula, round off this coast.

Further on, the Sulcis-Iglesiente reveals a less-visited Sardinia: the former mines of Iglesias, the cliffs of Nebida and Masua, the island of Sant'Antioco, connected by road. Carloforte, on the island of San Pietro, is reached in 30 to 40 minutes by ferry from Portovesme; its Ligurian dialect and its tuna make it a stop like no other. For accommodation, Cagliari, Villasimius and the Pula–Chia area are the three logical bases; Carloforte deserves two nights rather than a day trip.

⛰️ The third option: the Gulf of Orosei and the Barbagia

Neither North nor South, the east coast is the most spectacular for those who like to walk. The limestone cliffs of the Gulf of Orosei plunge down to coves reached by footpath or by boat: Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriola, Cala Goloritzé. Cala Gonone, a hamlet of Dorgali, is the most practical base: about 105 km and 1 hr 30 min by road from Olbia, more like three hours from Cagliari.

Access rules here are the strictest on the island. Cala Goloritzé can only be reached on foot from the Golgo plateau, about 3.5 km with 500 m of elevation change, by booking and limited to 250 people; boats cannot land there. Cala Mariolu and Cala Luna are subject to daily quotas with a QR code; if you go with a boat operator, they handle access for you. Boats from Cala Gonone reach Cala Luna in about twenty minutes, but an easterly wind can cancel departures, even in August.

Behind the coast, the Barbagia reveals a pastoral Sardinia: Orgosolo and its murals, Mamoiada and its masks, Oliena at the foot of the Supramonte, Nuoro and its costume museum. The Gorropu canyon can be explored on foot from the Genna Silana pass or the Flumineddu valley. For accommodation, choose Cala Gonone for the sea, Dorgali or Oliena for the mountains, Santa Maria Navarrese for the southern part of the gulf. Here, days are built around a trail or a boat, rarely around a towel laid out in front of the hotel.

🚗 Getting there and around

Choose your airport according to the area: Olbia for Gallura and the Gulf of Orosei, Alghero for the North-West, Cagliari for the South. By sea, Corsica Ferries links Toulon and Nice to Porto Torres or Golfo Aranci, and therefore to the North; Italian lines serve Olbia, Porto Torres, Arbatax and Cagliari. From Corsica, the Bonifacio–Santa Teresa Gallura crossing takes about 50 minutes. Route details are on our Getting to Sardinia page.

Once there, a car is almost essential, except for a stay centred on Cagliari or Alghero. There are no tolls, but distances cost time: allow just over three hours between Cagliari and Olbia (about 260 km), nearly three hours between Cagliari and Alghero, about two hours between Alghero and Olbia. The SS125, which runs along the east coast, is slow and winding. Book early for the summer and consider a one-way rental between two airports: see Car rental in Sardinia.

ARST buses serve the towns and a few resorts, such as Chia from Cagliari, but serve the coves and the interior poorly. Boats to La Maddalena, Asinara, Carloforte or the Gulf of Orosei are part of the trip: leave some leeway in case of wind. Ferry timetables, quotas and beach booking arrangements change from one season to the next: check them on the official websites before you leave.

📅 Season and budget

May-June and September are the best months everywhere: the sea is warm enough for swimming from June, trails are passable and regulated beaches are in less demand. In July and August, temperatures inland often exceed 30 °C, which makes east-coast hikes gruelling in the hottest hours, and Gallura reaches its peak in visitor numbers and prices.

The South has the advantage of a city that lives all year round: Cagliari is pleasant to visit in April or October, whereas many of the island's beach hotels close from autumn to Easter. The Sartiglia in Oristano, at carnival time, and the feast of Sant'Efisio, which sets off from Cagliari on 1 May, also give a reason to come out of season.

On the budget side, the Costa Smeralda and the La Maddalena archipelago in August are the most expensive on the island. The South, the North-West and the east coast remain more affordable, especially the agriturismi inland. Everywhere, boat trips weigh on spending: factor them in as soon as you are aiming for La Maddalena or the Gulf of Orosei.

📊 The comparison at a glance

❓ Frequently asked questions

🧭 Read more

• Sardinia: the complete guideRegions, seasons, access and beach rules to plan your trip.
• Where to stay in SardiniaCharacterful hotels, agriturismi and campsites, from Gallura to Cagliari.
• Things to do in SardiniaCala Goloritzé, La Maddalena, Asinara, La Pelosa and diving at Villasimius.
• Getting to SardiniaCagliari, Olbia and Alghero airports, ferries from France and Italy.
• Renting a car in SardiniaRental companies at the airports and tips for the island's roads.
• Corsica: north or south?The same comparison to choose where to stay in Corsica.
• Sicily: east or west?The same comparison to choose your base in Sicily.

The Dem-Tukki editorial team

Dem-Tukki is an independent island travel magazine: 88 destinations covered, in five languages.

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