Rodrigues

⚠️ Timetables, opening hours, prices and access conditions may change without notice, for reasons beyond our control (season, weather, decisions by operators, venues or local authorities). Before every trip, check the information with the relevant authorities and service providers. Entry requirements and local rules (reserves, quotas) are subject to the same caveat.

Rodrigues belongs to the Republic of Mauritius and is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the Indian Ocean. Lying about 560 km east of Mauritius, this 109 km² volcanic island is surrounded by a lagoon twice its size. Autonomous since 2002, it is home to some 44,000 people who speak Rodriguan Creole and French. Grassy hills, small villages, east-coast beaches and the Mourouk lagoon, popular with kitesurfers: Rodrigues appeals to travellers looking for walking, the sea and local life rather than large resorts.

A volcanic island ringed by its lagoon

Rodrigues lies about 560 km east of Mauritius, in the Mascarene Islands. Around 18 km long, the island is volcanic in origin; its hilly interior rises to Mont Limon, just under 400 m high. A coral reef encloses a lagoon twice the size of the island itself, dotted with islets such as Île aux Cocos and Île aux Chats. The main town, Port Mathurin, is on the north coast, while Plaine Corail airport occupies the south-western tip.

Since 2002 Rodrigues has enjoyed autonomous status within the Republic of Mauritius, with its own Regional Assembly. The island had around 44,400 inhabitants in 2021, spread between Port Mathurin and numerous villages in the hills and along the coast. The landscape remains rural, shaped by smallholdings, livestock farming and lagoon fishing. Accommodation consists mainly of guesthouses, self-catering gîtes and small hotels, which gives a stay here an unhurried pace, close to local life.

From Huguenot naturalists to sega tambour

Discovered by Portuguese navigators in the 16th century, the island takes its name from the sailor Diogo Rodrigues and remained uninhabited for a long time. From 1691 to 1693 a small group of French Protestants led by François Leguat lived here and described wildlife that has since vanished, including the Rodrigues solitaire and giant tortoises. The French founded Port Mathurin in 1735; the island came under British administration in the early 19th century and then followed Mauritius through to independence in 1968.

The population, largely of African and Malagasy descent, has developed a Creole culture all its own. The sega tambour of Rodrigues, sung and danced to the beat of drums, was inscribed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2017. The accordion also holds a special place in the island's music, notably in the ségakordéon. Lagoon cooking, vacoas basketry and the Creole Festival in early December keep this heritage very much alive.

Port Mathurin, caves and lagoon islets

Port Mathurin, founded in 1735, is a small, quiet main town with the tourist office, shops and the departure point for buses to the villages. In the south-west, the François Leguat Reserve at Anse Quitor combines a forest of native species, Aldabra giant tortoises and a network of limestone caves, including the Grande Caverne. Visits are by guided tour only, at set times, so check the schedule before you go.

The lagoon provides the island's other great outing. Île aux Cocos, a seabird reserve, and Île aux Chats are reached by boat on excursions run by local agencies. On land, footpaths link hill villages such as Grande Montagne with the coves along the coast. Access conditions for the islets and reserves can change: the Rodrigues Tourism Office in Port Mathurin is the best source of up-to-date information.

East-coast beaches and the Mourouk lagoon

The most popular beaches lie on the east and south-east coasts: Graviers, Anse Ally, Trou d'Argent, Saint-François and Pointe Coton. A coastal path links several of these coves on foot, between cliffs and small inlets. Swimming depends on the tides and on currents near the channels through the reef, so ask for local advice and avoid swimming alone far from the shore. At low tide the lagoon can also be explored on foot, as the octopus (ourite) fishers do.

In the south-east, the Mourouk lagoon is the island's main kitesurfing and windsurfing spot, with stronger winds from June to October. Clubs based at Anse Mourouk offer lessons and equipment hire, and the island hosts an international kitesurfing festival. Diving, snorkelling and fishing trips round out the water activities, while the interior is best explored on foot, through hills, valleys and orchards.

Getting to Rodrigues and getting around

There are no direct international flights. From Europe you first fly to Mauritius (around 11 to 12 hours from Paris), then Air Mauritius connects to Plaine Corail airport (RRG) in about 1 h 30. Air Austral also links Rodrigues with Réunion, on a seasonal or weekly schedule. The Mauritius Trochetia ship occasionally makes the crossing from Mauritius, taking 36 to 48 hours. Timetables change frequently, so always check directly with the operators.

On the island you can get around by taxi, hire car or bus. Buses run from Port Mathurin until about 6.30 pm and are scarce on Sundays. Traffic drives on the left, on roads that are often narrow and winding. Several local hire companies deliver vehicles to the airport or your accommodation; it is best to book ahead, especially during Mauritian and European school holidays.

Seasons, wind and travel budget

Rodrigues has a tropical climate tempered by the trade winds. The most pleasant periods are April to June and September to November. From June to October the wind is stronger, which suits kitesurfers; September and October are the driest months. From November to April the southern summer is hotter and more humid, with a risk of cyclones: keep an eye on weather bulletins and take out suitable travel insurance.

The currency is the Mauritian rupee (MUR). The biggest expense is the air fare, since you have to travel via Mauritius or Réunion. On the island, accommodation ranges from guesthouses with home-cooked meals to small hotels with pools, along with a few upmarket properties. The bus is the cheapest way to get around. French nationals do not need a visa for stays of under three months, and a valid passport and return ticket are required; other travellers should check the rules for their nationality.

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Nearby islands: Mauritius, Réunion, Seychelles and Madagascar.

Photo : Ashwin CM, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons