Île Sainte-Marie

⚠️ Timetables, opening hours, prices and access conditions may change without notice, for reasons beyond our control (season, weather, decisions by operators, venues or local authorities). Before every trip, check the information with the relevant authorities and service providers. Entry requirements and local rules (reserves, quotas) are subject to the same caveat.

Off the east coast of Madagascar, Île Sainte-Marie, known in Malagasy as Nosy Boraha, stretches for some sixty kilometres of coconut groves, coves and fishing villages. A pirate haven between the late 17th and the 18th century, it is now known for watching humpback whales from July to September. This guide brings together the essentials for planning your trip: history, sights, beaches, getting there by air or by boat, entry requirements and seasons.

A slender island facing the Great Island

Sainte-Marie is a long, narrow island about 60 km in length, running parallel to the east coast of Madagascar and separated from it by a channel frequented by whales. Its main town, Ambodifotatra, on the west coast, has the harbour, shops and cash machines. In the south, the airport sits on the Ravoraha headland, and Île aux Nattes, a small neighbouring island, is a few minutes away by pirogue. The north and east are more remote, with forest, coconut groves and villages.

Malagasy is spoken, and French is widely spoken, particularly in hotels and shops. The currency is the ariary (MGA). The climate is tropical: the southern winter, from June to September, is drier and windier, while January to April can bring cyclones to the east coast. As elsewhere in Madagascar, infrastructure is basic; it is wise to carry cash and to build some flexibility into your plans.

Pirates, Queen Bety and Madagascar's first church

Between the late 17th and the 18th century, Sainte-Marie served as a base for European and American pirates operating on the sea route to the Indies. The names of Adam Baldridge, William Kidd, Thomas Tew, Henry Every and La Buse remain linked to the island. Their memory lives on at the pirate cemetery near Ambodifotatra, where old graves still look out over the bay.

In 1750, Queen Bety ceded the island to France; the Reine Betty museum covers this period. In 1857, Madagascar's first Catholic church was built in Ambodifotatra, and it still stands today on the shore of the bay. Local culture is shaped by fishing, village life, including some villages on stilts, and Malagasy traditions, in which respect for the ancestors plays an important part.

From Ambodifotatra to the natural pools

Exploring usually starts in Ambodifotatra: the harbour, the 1857 church and, close by, the pirate cemetery. The Reine Betty museum rounds off the historical side. In the north, the natural pools of Ambodiatafana, rock basins on the ocean's edge, are a classic excursion, easily combined with the villages and coconut groves along the coast. Hiring a local guide helps you understand the sites and supports the island's economy.

In the south, Île aux Nattes is reached by pirogue from the southern tip in a few minutes, for around 5,000 ariary (an indicative price). It is best explored on foot, between beaches and villages. For whales, the Cétamada association, based on Sainte-Marie, works with partner hotels to oversee boat trips; establishments such as Princesse Bora Lodge and Baboo Village offer them in season.

Lagoons, coconut groves and humpback whales

The coastline alternates between palm-fringed beaches, lagoons sheltered by the reef and small coves. The west coast, facing the channel, is the most sheltered and has much of the accommodation; Île aux Nattes is good for snorkelling near the reef. Diving is offered by centres based in some hotels, such as Bora Dive & Research, which runs try dives and PADI courses, or the dive centre at Baboo Village.

The great natural event is the arrival of humpback whales, which come to mate and give birth in the waters of the channel from June or July to September, peaking in July and August. Boat trips must follow approach rules: choose operators who work with Cétamada. On land, the forest and coconut groves of the interior can be explored on foot, ideally with a local guide.

Getting there: by air or by boat

Sainte-Marie Airport (SMS), on the southern tip, is linked by Madagascar Airlines to Antananarivo (about a 1-hour flight) and Toamasina. From Europe, you first fly to Antananarivo-Ivato international airport, then take a connecting flight. By sea, boats leave from Soanierana-Ivongo (a 1 to 1.5-hour crossing, sometimes longer) and Mahambo; from Toamasina, allow 8 to 10 hours in total by road and boat.

Crossings are often cancelled in rough seas in July and August, so allow at least one day's margin before an international flight. On the island, distances are short but roads are basic; many places to stay offer transfers from the airport or the harbour, as well as excursions. Timetables, frequencies and conditions change often: check them with the airlines and your accommodation before you travel.

Whale season and budget on the island

The most popular period runs from June to September: this is the drier southern winter and the whale season, peaking in July and August. Book flights and accommodation early for these months. From January to April, the east coast can be hit by cyclones, so keep an eye on the weather and opt for flexible cancellation terms. Outside these periods the island can still be visited, but without the whales.

On the island, ariary are essential: the cash machines are in Ambodifotatra, so take cash before heading north or to Île aux Nattes. Accommodation ranges from small budget hotels to upmarket lodges. On arrival in Madagascar, budget for a paid visa and a €10 tourist tax; these 2026 rates should be checked before you travel, as should the entry rules for your nationality.

Essentials

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Nearby islands: Madagascar, Réunion, Mauritius and Seychelles.

Photo : M worm, Public domain, Wikimedia Commons