In Réunion, distances look short on the map — 70 km from one end to the other — but every outing is an expedition: 400 bends to climb to Cilaos, a barrier that closes at 5:30 pm at the volcano, a dawn start to beat the clouds to the Maïdo. Without a car, it is impossible to experience the intense island at your own pace. Here is everything you need to know before booking: budget, insurance, classic pitfalls and driving tips tested on the spot.
🚗 Why a car is essential
The bus network (Car Jaune and local lines) serves the coast well, but the highlands very poorly: for Piton de la Fournaise, the Maïdo or the thermal baths of Cilaos, there is simply no practical alternative. And that is where Réunion is really played out: the finest panoramas are won early in the morning, before the clouds rise — something no bus timetable allows.
The local golden rule fits in one sentence: "leave early, come down early". Set off from the coast between 5:30 and 6:30 am, summits before 9 am, and start heading back before 4 pm. A hire car picked up right at Roland-Garros airport puts you in the right rhythm from day one.
💶 Budget and booking: the right reflexes
Expect to pay €20 to €35 per day for a city car in normal season, more during French school holidays and the southern summer (December-January). By booking several weeks ahead, you can find 10-day rentals for around €140-180 through comparison sites — prices climb fast as dates approach, since supply is limited on an island.
Three points to check before confirming: a credit card in the driver's name is almost always required for the deposit (debit cards are often refused); a French or European licence is sufficient; and fuel is generally handled "full-to-full" — fill up just before returning the car, as petrol costs around €1.70 to €1.85/L, some 10 to 15% more than in mainland France. To compare international brands and local agencies at a glance, go through a comparison site such as Discover Cars — and find our detailed selection on our Réunion car hire page.
📄 Insurance and excess: read before you sign
On mountain roads, a scratch happens fast: look at the excess before the price. A €22/day offer with a €1,500 excess can end up costing far more than a €28/day offer with excess cover included. Partial or full excess cover (often €5 to €8/day) pays for itself from the first scrape of bodywork.
When you pick up the vehicle, walk all the way around it with your phone: dated photos of every side, the wheels and the windscreen, and any defect noted in writing on the check-out form. Same reflex when returning it. It is the best protection against disputes — and it costs nothing.
⛰️ Driving in the cirques: Cilaos and Salazie
The RN5 to Cilaos is legendary: 31 km and around 400 bends, narrow tunnels carved into the cliff where two vehicles cannot always pass, and a few reverse manoeuvres to expect when facing buses. The local rules: give a short horn blast before blind bends, give way to vehicles climbing, and above all descend using engine braking (2nd or 3rd gear) — overheating brakes are the island's real danger.
The Salazie cirque, via the RD48, is the most accessible: a wider road, waterfalls right beside the tarmac, narrowing only towards Hell-Bourg. Watch out for falling branches in the wet season and for ravines that swell very quickly after a downpour. As for Mafate, no road leads there: the third cirque is earned on foot — park the car at the Maïdo or at Sans-Souci and lace up your trainers.
🌋 Volcano and Maïdo: the race against the clouds
The volcano road (RN3 then RF11) crosses the lunar Plaine des Sables: near-daily fog from late morning, visibility sometimes down to a few metres, and the Pas de Bellecombe barrier closed at 5:30 pm. The last 3 kilometres are a rough track: drive at walking pace — a city car makes it in dry weather. There are no petrol stations in the highlands — set off with a full tank.
For sunrise at the Maïdo (2,200 m), leave the coast around 4:30 am: tight hairpins above 1,500 m, a risk of black ice in July-August, and stray cattle wandering at first light on the Plaine des Cafres as in Salazie. Headlights on, 30 km/h in the mist, and patience: the show at the top rewards everything.
🌀 Cyclones, speed cameras and local rules
The highway code is the same as in mainland France: 50 km/h in town, 80 on open roads, 110 on the Route des Tamarins, alcohol limited to 0.5 g/L, and fixed and mobile speed cameras very much present along the coast. In cyclone season (January-March), check the Météo-France 974 alerts before every outing: orange alert = travel discouraged, red alert = forbidden, and the highland roads close progressively. Never cross a submerged ford, however harmless it looks — wait for the water to recede; it usually does so quickly.
📊 Which vehicle for which programme?
| Vehicle | Who is it for? | Strengths | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|---|
| City car | Couples, tight budget | Economical, easy in the bends and tunnels of Cilaos | Fine everywhere in dry weather, even at the volcano (walking pace on the track) |
| Compact / saloon | Couple + children | Boot space for hikes, more comfort on the Route des Tamarins | Good price/space compromise, the most in demand: book early |
| SUV | Family, heavy luggage | Reassuring ground clearance on the volcano track | Wider: less agile in the narrow tunnels of the RN5 |
| 4x4 | Craving adventure | Maximum comfort on authorised tracks | Never essential — Mafate remains inaccessible by car |
Compare car hire offers for Réunion
Big brands and local agencies, free cancellation: compare the best current offers in seconds.
See the offers on DiscoverCars.com →Partner link: if you book through this link, Dem-Tukki receives a commission, at no extra cost to you.
Desk located in the arrivals area of Saint-Denis airport, ideal for hiring straight off the plane and setting out to explore the island's mountain roads and coastline.
Official Hertz Réunion website →
A wide choice of vehicles suited to the winding roads of the cirques and the coastal road, with additional branches in Saint-Denis, Saint-Pierre and Saint-Gilles.
Official Europcar Réunion website →
🏆 Our verdict
A city car or compact booked several weeks in advance with excess cover: that is the winning formula for 90% of travellers in Réunion. A controlled budget (allow €150 to €250 for ten days outside high season) leaves more room for tables d'hôtes and helicopter flights.
The real luxury on the intense island is not engine size: it is leaving early, tank full, excess covered, check-out photos in your phone — and savouring every bend "ti lamp ti lamp", slowly but surely, as the Réunionese say.
Ready to take the wheel? Compare the offers of the rental agencies on the island.
Car hire in Réunion →Keywords: car hire Réuniondriving in Réunionvolcano roadCilaosRéunion travel budget