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Sitting on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge just below the Arctic Circle, Iceland is a young island where the ground is still moving. Active volcanoes, glaciers, hot springs and waterfalls follow one another within a few hours' drive. Most travellers land at Keflavík, spend a few days in Reykjavík, then head out to the Golden Circle, the South Coast and the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Reykjavík, a capital on a human scale
The Reykjavík area is home to around two thirds of the country's population, yet the city remains on a human scale. The centre is easy to explore on foot: Laugavegur street, the old harbour, Hallgrímskirkja church and the Harpa concert hall on the waterfront. Museums tell the story of the Viking settlers and of a long-isolated nation.
The city makes a convenient base for the first few days. Municipal swimming pools, heated by geothermal water, are part of daily life and remain inexpensive. Whale-watching trips leave from the old harbour, and many day tours head out to Þingvellir, Geysir or the Reykjanes peninsula.
From the Golden Circle to Vík's black beaches
The Golden Circle is a day loop from Reykjavík. It links Þingvellir National Park, where the Althing assembly met from 930, the Haukadalur geothermal area and its Strokkur geyser, then the two-tiered Gullfoss waterfall. Hot baths, greenhouses and farms along the way make good stops.
Further east, Route 1 runs along the South Coast. You can walk behind the curtain of Seljalandsfoss, stand close to Skógafoss, then reach Vík and the black-sand beach of Reynisfjara, where the waves are dangerous. Beyond lies Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
Snæfellsnes, Iceland in miniature
About two hours' drive north of Reykjavík, the Snæfellsnes peninsula packs much of Iceland's scenery into a short distance: a glacier-capped volcano, basalt cliffs, lava fields, beaches and fishing harbours. Kirkjufell mountain, near Grundarfjörður, is one of the most photographed sights in the country.
Snæfellsjökull, the starting point of Jules Verne's Journey to the Centre of the Earth, rises above a national park. The villages of Stykkishólmur, Ólafsvík and Arnarstapi can be explored in one or two days. Further east, the Borgarfjörður area adds hot springs, lava tunnels and trips onto the Langjökull glacier.
Essentials & your questions
| Getting there | Direct flights to Keflavík (KEF) from Paris year-round and from Lyon and Nice in season, in about 3.5 to 4 hours. Smyril Line ferry from Denmark to Seyðisfjörður. |
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| Best time to go | June to August for hiking and long days; September to March for the northern lights. The weather changes quickly in every season. |
| Currency | Icelandic króna (ISK). Bank cards are accepted almost everywhere, even for small amounts. |
| Language | Icelandic. English is widely spoken throughout the country. |
| Entry requirements | Iceland is not in the EU but belongs to the Schengen Area and the EEA. EU citizens need a valid ID card or passport. The European Health Insurance Card is accepted. |
Do you need a car in Iceland?
It is the most flexible way to explore beyond Reykjavík. In summer a standard car is fine for the Golden Circle and the South Coast; F-roads require a 4x4.
When can you see the northern lights?
Roughly from late August to mid-April, on dark, clear nights. Get away from city lights and check the forecast from the Icelandic Meteorological Office.
How many days do you need?
Four to five days for Reykjavík, the Golden Circle and the South Coast to Vík. Two more for Snæfellsnes, and at least a week to drive round the island.
Photo: Russo Francesco, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons