Koh Phi Phi

⚠️ Timetables, opening hours, prices and access conditions may change without notice, for reasons beyond our control (season, weather, decisions by operators, venues or local authorities). Before every trip, check the information with the relevant authorities and service providers. Entry requirements and local rules (reserves, quotas) are subject to the same caveat.

Off the coast of Krabi in the Andaman Sea, Koh Phi Phi is a cluster of six islands framed by dramatic limestone cliffs. Only Phi Phi Don is inhabited: its village, Ton Sai, sits on a sandy isthmus between two bays and is explored entirely on foot, since there are no cars and no roads. Everywhere else, you hop on a longtail boat to the quieter beaches of Long Beach, Loh Bagao or Laem Tong, or across to Phi Phi Leh and its famous Maya Bay. Diving, snorkelling and hikes to the viewpoints set the pace, ideally between November and April.

A limestone archipelago between Phuket and Krabi

The Phi Phi archipelago belongs to Krabi province in southern Thailand, about 46 km southeast of Phuket. Its six islands cover roughly 12 km² in total: Phi Phi Don (10.3 km²), the only inhabited one, Phi Phi Leh (1.3 km²), then the islets of Ko Mai Phai, nicknamed Bamboo Island, Ko Yung and the two Bida islands. All of them lie within Hat Noppharat Thara–Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park, which also protects a long stretch of mainland coast facing Ao Nang.

From the air, Phi Phi Don looks like a butterfly: two forested hills joined by a narrow sandy isthmus, less than two metres above sea level. This is where Ton Sai, the main village, grew up, squeezed between Ton Sai Bay, where the ferries dock, and north-facing Loh Dalum Bay. The rest of the island is far wilder and is reached by steep jungle trails or by boat, with coves such as Long Beach, Phak Nam, Loh Bagao and Laem Tong at the northern tip.

History and culture: from fishermen to the 2004 tsunami

The name Phi Phi is thought to come from the Malay Pulau Api-Api. The first permanent settlers, Thai fishermen of Malay origin, arrived in the late 1940s, and the island later became a large coconut plantation. Today more than 80% of Phi Phi Don's resident Thai population is Muslim, and an Urak Lawoi community, the so-called sea gypsies, lives at Laem Tong. The film The Beach (2000), partly shot at Maya Bay, then sent visitor numbers soaring across the archipelago.

On 26 December 2004 the tsunami struck the Ton Sai isthmus head-on, trapped as it is between two bays: about 70% of buildings were destroyed and estimates put the death toll at over a thousand. The island has been rebuilt, but the memory remains strong. Every 26 December a ceremony brings together residents, families and visitors, and divers lay a wreath on an underwater memorial offshore. Keeping that history in mind is part of travelling respectfully on Phi Phi, especially when visiting at the end of December.

What to see: Maya Bay, lagoons and viewpoints

The unmissable Maya Bay, on Phi Phi Leh, is now tightly managed by the national park. After a full closure from 2018 to 2022, the bay closes every year from 1 August to 30 September, swimming is banned (you can only wade up to your knees) and boats moor at the back of the island, at Loh Samah, from where you walk to the beach. Allow about an hour on site and an entrance fee of around 400 baht, as a guide, often included in tour prices.

Boat trips also cruise past the Pileh Lagoon, with its turquoise water ringed by cliffs, the Viking Cave, where edible swiftlet nests are harvested, and Monkey Beach. On Phi Phi Don, the climb to the viewpoints from Ton Sai takes 20 to 40 minutes of steep steps depending on the lookout; the view over the twin bays is the island's classic postcard. A small fee of a few dozen baht is charged along the way. Set off early in the morning to beat the heat and the crowds.

Beaches, diving and nature: the quiet side of Phi Phi

Away from the bustle of Ton Sai and Loh Dalum, several beaches offer a calmer Phi Phi. Long Beach, to the south, is reached on foot or by water taxi and looks straight across to Phi Phi Leh. In the northeast, Loh Bagao is a long, shallow beach that suits families, while Laem Tong, reachable only by sea, has a handful of resorts and no nightlife, next to the Urak Lawoi village. Phak Nam and Rantee, on the east coast, are all about seclusion.

Underwater, the archipelago has around twenty dive sites around Bida Nok, Phi Phi Leh and Bamboo Island, open to beginners on a first dive. The island's dive centres also run snorkelling trips, sometimes to spot small reef sharks, and several take part in coral restoration projects. Foreign divers pay an extra national park fee. To protect the reefs, use a reef-friendly sunscreen, never touch the coral and do not feed the fish, however tempting it may be in the shallow, clear water around the islands.

Getting there and around: ferries, speedboats and longtails

Koh Phi Phi has no airport. You fly into Phuket or Krabi, then take a boat to Ton Sai pier. From Rassada pier in Phuket, the ferry takes about two hours and the speedboat about one; from Klong Jilad pier in Krabi, allow roughly two hours by ferry. There are also connections from Ao Nang and Koh Lanta, and some boats call directly at Laem Tong. On arrival, a small fee (around 20 baht, as a guide) is collected at the pier.

Once there, forget cars and scooters: the island has no roads and Ton Sai is explored on foot, with porters offering to carry luggage to the hotels. To reach the outlying beaches, you flag down a longtail, the traditional long-tail boats used as water taxis, and agree on the fare before boarding. Ferry timetables, national park rules and sea conditions change with the seasons, so always check with the operators and the authorities before you travel.

When to go, budget and entry requirements

On the Andaman Sea side, the best time to visit runs from November to April, during the dry season: calm sea, clear water and blue skies. From May to October, the southwest monsoon brings showers and swell, some crossings may be cancelled and Maya Bay closes in August and September. This low season can still work if you want lower prices and fewer people, provided you stay flexible. The Christmas and New Year period is in high demand, so book your accommodation well ahead.

The currency is the Thai baht (THB); carry cash, as not everything on the island can be paid by card. As a rough guide, budget 450 to 700 baht for a ferry ticket, around 400 baht for Maya Bay and from 1,500 baht a night for a simple bungalow. Since 15 September 2026, French citizens can enter visa-free for up to 30 days (down from 60), with a passport valid for six months; the digital TDAC arrival card is filled in online, free of charge, within three days before arrival.

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Nearby islands: Phuket, Koh Lanta, Koh Lipe and Koh Samui.

Photo : Naikhumklao, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons