Lamu takes some effort: an international flight, a domestic flight and a boat to reach its car-free lanes. Before booking, a few points are essential, starting with safety.
By The Dem-Tukki editorial team·Published ·Updated ·4 min readThis practical guide complements our Lamu archipelago guide. It follows the advice of the French Foreign Ministry, France Diplomatie (updated 25 September 2026); check it, and your own government's travel advice, before and during your trip.
⚠️ Safety first
France Diplomatie places Lamu and Manda islands under heightened vigilance (yellow zone) and advises travelling there by air only: access from the mainland is strongly advised against, and the mainland part of Lamu County is a red zone. The other islands of the archipelago, such as Pate or Kiwayu, are not presented here as places to stay.
In practice: book a flight to Manda airport, do not travel by road or boat from the mainland, stay on Lamu and Manda islands and read the travel advice of France Diplomatie and of your own country before and during your stay, as the situation can change quickly. If your government offers a traveller registration service, sign up to receive alerts.
✈️ Getting there: Nairobi, then Manda
From Europe you first fly to Nairobi, then take a domestic flight to Manda airport (LAU) with airlines such as Safarilink, from Wilson Airport, or Skyward Airlines. Check your departure airport in Nairobi: Wilson, used for domestic flights, is not the international airport.
On arrival, a boat crosses the channel in about 5 minutes to Lamu Town (around 200 KSh, as a guide); allow about 1,200 to 1,500 KSh to Shela. Many places to stay arrange airport pick-ups. Plan a night in Nairobi if your connections are tight, and leave some margin on the way home.
🛂 Entry rules and health
To enter Kenya you need a passport valid for six months and an eTA (electronic travel authorisation), applied for on the official website etakenya.go.ke, from 30 USD. Processing takes a few days: apply about two weeks before you travel.
For health, see your doctor or a travel clinic several weeks before departure: they will advise on vaccinations and malaria protection suited to your itinerary. Take out travel insurance that covers repatriation.
🏠 Lamu Town, Shela or Manda: where to stay?
Lamu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the heart of the archipelago: guesthouses and restored Swahili houses, local life, the museum and the fort close by. It is the best choice for atmosphere and smaller budgets, with little beach. Shela, further south, is a quieter village with boutique hotels, a long beach backed by dunes and easy access to kitesurfing.
Manda Island, across the channel, has the airport and a few more secluded hotels, notably towards Ras Kitau point, facing Shela. People stay there for peace and the beach, crossing by boat to visit the old town. Find our addresses on the Where to stay in Lamu page.
📅 When to go
The best time is July to April. The long rains, from April to June, make a stay less pleasant. For kitesurfing, aim for June to August or December to March, when the winds are steady.
The Lamu Cultural Festival (dhow and donkey races, music, crafts) takes place on dates that vary from year to year, and Maulidi follows the Islamic calendar: check the dates for the year and book early if you want to attend.
🫏 Life on the island
The island has no roads for cars: you get around on foot, by boat or by donkey. Most of the population is Muslim; clothing covering shoulders and knees is appreciated in the old town's lanes, and discretion is expected during Ramadan.
The currency is the Kenyan shilling (KES). The budget depends mostly on accommodation, plus the domestic flight, boat crossings and dhow trips, to be booked or negotiated in advance. Things to see: carved doors and coral-stone houses, the Lamu Museum and fort, the Takwa ruins on Manda and sunset over the channel.
📊 The comparison at a glance
| Criterion | Lamu Town | Shela | Manda Island |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Lively old town, local life | Quiet village | Secluded, beach-oriented |
| Beach | Little, reached on foot or by boat | Long beach backed by dunes | Ras Kitau, facing Shela |
| Accommodation | Guesthouses, Swahili houses | Boutique hotels, Swahili houses | More secluded hotels |
| From the airport | Boat, about 5 min | Boat, a little longer | On the same island |
| Best for | Culture, smaller budgets | Couples, kitesurfing, relaxing | Total peace |
🏆 Our verdict
For a first stay: split your time between Lamu Town and Shela.
For the beach and kitesurfing: Shela, from June to August or December to March.
Above all: check the travel advice, fly all the way to Manda and apply for your eTA two weeks before you travel.
❓ Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to go to Lamu?
France Diplomatie places Lamu and Manda islands under heightened vigilance and advises reaching them by air only; access from the mainland is strongly advised against. Check its advice, and your own government's, before and during your stay.
How do you get to Lamu from Europe?
International flight to Nairobi, then a domestic flight to Manda airport (Safarilink from Wilson Airport, or Skyward Airlines), and a boat to Lamu Town or Shela.
Do you need a visa for Kenya?
An eTA is required, applied for on etakenya.go.ke (from 30 USD) about two weeks before you travel, with a passport valid for six months.
When should you go to Lamu?
From July to April. Avoid the long rains, from April to June.
Where should you stay in Lamu?
Lamu Town for atmosphere and smaller budgets, Shela for the beach and peace, Manda Island for seclusion.
Are there cars on Lamu?
No: people get around on foot, by boat or by donkey.
🧭 Read more
- The Lamu archipelago, the complete guideHistory, sights and beaches
- Where to stay in LamuSwahili houses, boutique hotels and resorts
- Things to do in LamuDhows, kitesurfing and the old town
- Getting to LamuFlights via Nairobi to Manda
- ZanzibarAnother Swahili island, in Tanzania
- When to go to ZanzibarOur seasons guide
Still torn between two islands or two regions? Find all our comparisons and practical advice in the Dem-Tukki Travel Guide.
See all our guides →Dem-Tukki is an independent island travel magazine: 92 destinations covered, in five languages.
All our travel guides →