Lamu Archipelago

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Off Kenya's northern coast, the Lamu Archipelago moves at its own pace: no cars, narrow lanes explored on foot or by donkey, and sailing dhows on the channel. Its old town, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001, is the oldest Swahili settlement in East Africa that is still inhabited. Stays centre on the islands of Lamu and Manda, which France Diplomatie places under heightened vigilance: they should be reached by air only, via Manda airport.

Two islands on either side of the channel

The Lamu Archipelago is strung along Kenya's northern coast in the Indian Ocean, not far from the Somali border. It is made up of several islands, but travellers stay on two of them: Lamu, home to the old town and the village of Shela, and Manda, across a narrow channel, which has the airport and a handful of hotels. The archipelago's other islands, including Pate and Kiwayu, are not presented in this guide as places to stay.

The landscape alternates between mangroves, sand dunes and beaches open to the ocean, especially in the south of Lamu Island, between Shela and Kizingoni. Lamu town, capital of the county of the same name, faces the channel: this is where boats from Manda come ashore. There are no roads for cars on the island; people get around on foot, by boat or by donkey, and the island is said to have around 3,000 donkeys.

Seven centuries of Swahili culture

Inhabited for more than 700 years, Lamu Old Town is the oldest Swahili settlement in East Africa still lived in today, which earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001. A trading town facing the Indian Ocean, it grew through contact with Arabia, Persia and India, whose influences can be seen in its architecture, language and food. People speak Kiamu, the Swahili dialect of Lamu, as well as English.

Most of the population is Muslim and religion shapes daily life: the festival of Maulidi, which celebrates the Prophet's birth, draws pilgrims from all along the coast every year. Clothing that covers shoulders and knees is appreciated in the lanes of the old town. The Lamu Cultural Festival, held on dates that vary from year to year, showcases dhow and donkey races, music and traditional crafts.

Carved doors, the fort and the Takwa ruins

Exploring starts in the maze of the old town: houses of coral stone with mangrove-pole beams, rooftop terraces and carved wooden doors, the true signature of Swahili architecture. On the seafront, the Lamu Museum, part of the National Museums of Kenya, holds one of the major Swahili collections on the coast. It also manages Lamu Fort, built in the early 19th century and used as a prison from 1910 to 1984.

Further south, the village of Shela, with its quieter lanes, can be reached on foot along the seafront or by boat. Across the channel on Manda Island, the Takwa ruins preserve the remains of an ancient Swahili town, including a mosque and tombs, surrounded by vegetation. Ask locally about visiting conditions and opt for an organised boat trip rather than going on your own.

Shela's dunes, mangroves and sunset dhows

The long beach at Shela, backed by dunes, stretches towards the south of Lamu Island as far as the more secluded Kizingoni area. People come here to walk, to swim depending on the tides and, from June to August and again from December to March, to go kitesurfing when the winds set in. On Manda Island, the headland of Ras Kitau, facing Shela, also offers sand and calm water.

The channel and mangroves are best discovered aboard a dhow, the traditional sailing boat of the Swahili coast: a sunset cruise, a day's sailing with lunch or a night on board in the archipelago. Lamu's beaches are also nesting sites for sea turtles, monitored by the local organisation LAMCOT, which also runs beach clean-ups around Shela. Keep your distance from nests and follow local guidance.

Arrive by air, get around by boat

Safety: France Diplomatie places the islands of Lamu and Manda under heightened vigilance and advises reaching them by air only; access via the mainland is strongly advised against, and the mainland part of Lamu County is a red zone. Check the travel advice of France Diplomatie (or your own government) before you leave and during your stay, as the situation can change quickly.

From Europe, first fly to Nairobi on an international flight, then take a domestic flight to Manda Airport (LAU) with airlines such as Safarilink, from Wilson Airport, or Skyward Airlines. At Manda, a boat crosses the channel to Lamu town in about 5 minutes (roughly KSh 200 as a guide); allow around KSh 1,200 to 1,500 for Shela. After that, everything is done on foot, by boat or by donkey.

July to April, away from the long rains

The best time to visit runs from July to April. The long rains, from April to June, make a stay less pleasant and are best avoided. Kitesurfers should aim for June to August or December to March, when the winds blow steadily. For the Lamu Cultural Festival (dates vary from year to year) or for Maulidi, whose date follows the Islamic calendar, book your accommodation early and check that year's dates.

The currency is the Kenyan shilling (KES). Your budget will depend mainly on where you stay: guesthouses in the old town, Swahili houses and boutique hotels in Shela, or resorts on Manda. Add the domestic flight, boat crossings and dhow trips, to be booked or negotiated in advance. To enter Kenya, an eTA is mandatory (etakenya.go.ke, from USD 30): apply about two weeks before departure.

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Nearby islands: Zanzibar, Seychelles, Mayotte and Madagascar.

Photo : Bingar1234, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons