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Saaremaa is Estonia's largest island, off the west coast of the country in the Baltic Sea. You arrive on the Virtsu–Kuivastu ferry, crossing Muhu island and its causeway, or by plane to Kuressaare. The landscape mixes forest, juniper heath, stone villages and limestone shores. Kuressaare, the only town, keeps a medieval bishop's castle and a long spa tradition.
A small spa town around a castle
Kuressaare, once called Arensburg, is the island's only town. Its 14th-century bishop's castle, ringed by moats and ramparts, is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in the Baltic states. It houses the Saaremaa Museum, which covers the island's history, its recent past and its natural world.
The town has a long spa tradition: its first mud-bath establishment opened in 1840, and several spa hotels carry on that heritage today. In the castle park, the wooden Kuursaal, opened in 1889, hosts a restaurant and summer concerts, especially during the Saaremaa Opera Days at the end of July.
A crater, windmills and stone churches
North-east of Kuressaare, the Kaali crater was formed about 7,500 years ago when a meteorite struck. The main crater, filled with water, is about 110 m across, surrounded by eight smaller depressions. It is one of the best-preserved meteorite craters in the world, and has a visitor centre.
Further north, Angla hill gathers four post mills and an eight-sided smock mill, one of the best-preserved groups of windmills in Estonia. The heritage centre next door, built of island dolomite, shows old tools and rural life. On the way, St Martin's Church in Valjala, like other medieval churches on the island, is worth a stop.
Cliffs, lighthouses and Koguva village
On the north coast, Panga cliff rises up to 21.3 m above the sea for about 2.5 km: it is the highest bedrock outcrop in western Estonia. To the west, Vilsandi National Park protects islets, shores and seabirds. To the south, the Sõrve peninsula ends at a 52 m lighthouse.
Before reaching Saaremaa, you cross Muhu. On its west coast, Koguva village is one of the finest examples of rural Estonian architecture; the Muhu Museum occupies several of its houses, including the farm where the writer Juhan Smuul was born. Inland, Tihuse farm offers rides on Estonian native horses.
Essentials & your questions
| Getting there | Direct airBaltic flights from Paris to Tallinn (TLL), then about 1 h 45 by road to Virtsu and the ferry to Kuivastu (about 30 min). NyxAir flies Tallinn–Kuressaare (URE) in about 30 min; Finnair from Helsinki in summer. |
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| Best season | May to September. From June to August the days are very long and almost every site is open. Out of season, several hotels and attractions work by advance booking only. |
| Currency | Euro (EUR). Cards are accepted almost everywhere; keep a little cash for farms and small stalls. |
| Language | Estonian. English is widely spoken in tourism. Two useful words: tere (hello) and aitäh (thank you). |
| Entry requirements | Estonia is in the EU and the Schengen area: a valid national ID card or passport is enough for EU citizens. Bring your European Health Insurance Card. |
Do you need a car on Saaremaa?
It is the most practical option, as the sights are spread out. Buses link Kuressaare with the villages, and cycling suits the very flat terrain.
Should you book the ferry?
It is wise in summer, especially on Fridays and Sundays: booking online at praamid.ee avoids queues at Virtsu. The crossing takes about 30 minutes.
How many days should you plan?
Three to four days: Kuressaare and its castle, a Kaali–Angla–Panga loop, the Sõrve peninsula or Vilsandi, and a stop on Muhu on the way.
Photo: Pimpampoum, CC BY-SA 3.0 ee, Wikimedia Commons