Sri Lanka

⚠️ Timetables, opening hours, prices and access conditions may change without notice, for reasons beyond our control (season, weather, decisions by operators, venues or local authorities). Before every trip, check the information with the relevant authorities and service providers. Entry requirements and local rules (reserves, quotas) are subject to the same caveat.

South of the tip of India, Sri Lanka packs UNESCO-listed Buddhist heritage, hills lined with tea estates and beaches on two coasts into roughly 65,600 km². The rock of Sigiriya, the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy and Galle Fort mark out the classic route, which travellers often extend with the scenic Kandy–Ella train, a safari in Yala or a whale-watching trip off Mirissa. Two monsoons shape the year, so one coast or another is almost always in season.

A teardrop island, from lowlands to tea country

Separated from India by the Palk Strait, Sri Lanka covers about 65,600 km², with highlands at its heart: this is where, around Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Ella, the tea estates climb the slopes. Around this massif lie dry plains to the north and east, home to the ancient royal cities, and a humid coastal belt in the south-west. Colombo, the commercial capital, is on the west coast; the administrative capital, Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte, is its close neighbour.

The climate is tropical, cooler at altitude. The island receives two monsoons: the south-west monsoon (May–September) brings rain to the south and west coasts and the hills, while the north-east monsoon (October/November to February) mainly affects the north and the east coast around Trincomalee and Arugam Bay. October and November are a transition period, often rainy across the country. This double pattern means a trip is best planned region by region, according to the month.

Two thousand years of Buddhist kingdoms and trading posts

Buddhism took root on the island in the 3rd century BC, and Anuradhapura served for more than a millennium as the capital of Sinhalese kingdoms before Polonnaruwa took over in the medieval period. In the 5th century, King Kassapa built a citadel on top of Sigiriya rock. Kandy later remained the last independent kingdom and still holds the relic of the Buddha's tooth, honoured each summer by the great Esala Perahera procession.

From the 16th century, the Portuguese, the Dutch and then the British followed one another along the coasts, as Galle Fort still shows. Under British rule the island, then called Ceylon, was covered with tea plantations. It became independent in 1948 and took the name Sri Lanka in 1972. Today Sinhala and Tamil are the official languages, English is widely used, and Poya (full-moon) days are public holidays: some restaurants and shops close or change their hours.

The Cultural Triangle, Kandy and Galle

The Cultural Triangle, in the north-central region, brings together several UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the rock fortress of Sigiriya (5th century, listed in 1982), the ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa (1982) and the Golden Temple of Dambulla (1991), a group of cave shrines decorated with paintings and statues of the Buddha. Neighbouring Pidurangala rock looks across to Sigiriya, and from November to April hot-air balloon flights take off from the Dambulla area.

Further south, Kandy is built around its lake and the Temple of the Tooth (sacred city listed in 1988). On the south coast, Galle Fort (1988) keeps its ramparts, colonial streets and former merchants' houses, now turned into hotels and cafés. In Colombo, the Old Dutch Hospital in the Fort district houses restaurants. In the hills, Nuwara Eliya and Ella are known for their tea country, where several estates offer tours and tastings.

Whales, leopards and waves on two coasts

The south coast strings together the bays of Unawatuna, Ahangama, Mirissa, Talalla and Tangalle. From December to April, the south coast's season, boats leave Mirissa to watch whales and dolphins; it is best to choose an operator that respects approach distances. The east coast, with the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli near Trincomalee and the surf spot of Arugam Bay, is the place to be from April/May to September. Diving follows the same calendar: Trincomalee until the end of October, Unawatuna from November to April.

Inland, Yala (south-east) and Wilpattu (north-west) national parks are explored by jeep, with the leopard as the sighting everyone hopes for. Around Sigiriya, forests, lakes and paddy fields lend themselves to walking, and the highlands around Ella and Nuwara Eliya offer cooler hikes between rows of tea bushes. Currents can be strong on some beaches, especially out of season: ask locally before swimming.

Fly into Colombo, then travel by train or with a driver

International flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) in Katunayake, north of Colombo. SriLankan Airlines flies non-stop from Paris to Colombo depending on the season (about 10 h 15 to 11 h 30); the service varies and should be checked on srilankan.com. With a stopover, Qatar Airways (Doha), Emirates (Dubai), Etihad (Abu Dhabi) and Turkish Airlines (Istanbul) also serve Colombo. The ETA, an electronic travel authorisation, must be obtained online at eta.gov.lk before departure.

Once there, the train is a popular way to get around, especially on the scenic Kandy–Ella line; reserved seats are sold at seatreservation.railway.gov.lk. Many travellers opt for a car with driver, offered by local hire firms and agencies that also handle airport transfers. Traffic drives on the left, and driving yourself requires a local permit; some tuk-tuk hire firms help with the paperwork. Distances look short on the map, but roads are slow: allow plenty of time.

Pick your coast by the season

From December to April, the south coast, the west coast and the hills are at their best: it is whale season at Mirissa and the busiest period. From April/May to September, head for the east coast, from Trincomalee to Arugam Bay, while the south-west monsoon waters the other side of the island. In July and August the Esala Perahera fills Kandy; book early if you wish to attend. October and November, the transition season, are often rainy everywhere.

On budget, accommodation ranges from eco-lodges and family-run guesthouses to boutique hotels in historic mansions and luxury villas. The currency is the Sri Lankan rupee (LKR). Since 25 May 2026, the ETA has been free for nationals of 40 countries, including France (30 days, double entry), but extensions are charged. Fares, train timetables and entry requirements change: check them on official websites before booking.

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Nearby islands: Maldives, Seychelles, Mauritius and Madagascar.

Photo : Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons