Cook Islands

⚠️ Timetables, opening hours, prices and access conditions may change without notice, for reasons beyond our control (season, weather, decisions by operators, venues or local authorities). Before every trip, check the information with the relevant authorities and service providers. Entry requirements and local rules (reserves, quotas) are subject to the same caveat.

The Cook Islands are a South Pacific nation in free association with New Zealand, lying “halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii”, according to the tourism office. Fifteen islands, split between a Southern and a Northern Group, are scattered across a vast expanse of ocean. Most travellers discover Rarotonga, a volcanic island 32 km round that is home to Avarua, followed by Aitutaki and its lagoon dotted with motu. Mountain hiking, diving, dance shows and Sunday church singing shape a stay that begins with a flight from Auckland or Papeete.

Fifteen islands scattered between New Zealand and Hawaii

The Cook Islands fall into two groups: the Southern Group, made up of Rarotonga, Aitutaki and seven other islands, and the Northern Group of six islands, fifteen in all. According to Cook Islands Tourism, the archipelago is spread over some 700,000 square miles of the Pacific Ocean, roughly 1.8 million km², while the land itself covers very little. Rarotonga and Aitutaki account for most of what visitors come to see; the other islands, known as the Pa Enua, are reached on Air Rarotonga's domestic flights, scheduled for some and on demand for others.

Rarotonga, a high volcanic island, is 32 km round: a drive around it takes about 45 minutes, on a single main road with no traffic lights and just two roundabouts. Its mountainous interior is crowned by peaks such as Te Rua Manga (The Needle, 413 m). Avarua, on the north coast, is the town centre and the nation's capital. Some 220 km to the north, Aitutaki has around 1,800 inhabitants; its turquoise lagoon is dotted with fifteen motu, small islets of sand and coral.

From Polynesian voyagers to self-government in 1965

The Cook Islands were settled by Polynesian voyagers, whose language, Cook Islands Maori, is now an official language alongside English. The marae, ancient places of worship and gathering, still bear witness to this past, notably in the hills of Rarotonga, where the Highland Paradise cultural centre has restored those of a former mountain village. The archipelago takes its name from the British navigator James Cook, who sighted several of the islands in the 1770s. In the 19th century, the arrival of missionaries firmly established Christianity, which remains central to daily life.

The islands became a British protectorate in 1888 and were annexed to New Zealand in 1901. Since 1965 they have been self-governing in free association with New Zealand: the currency is the New Zealand dollar, and a Cook Islander holding a New Zealand passport is a New Zealand citizen. Self-government is celebrated at Te Maeva Nui, the national festival of song and dance; the next edition is announced for 23 July to 4 August 2027. On Sundays, services at the Cook Islands Christian Church, renowned for their polyphonic singing, warmly welcome visitors.

Avarua, the Cross Island Trek and cultural villages

In Avarua, the Punanga Nui Market comes alive on Saturday mornings until noon: fresh produce, crafts, tivaevae (handmade quilts) and black pearls, with music and dancing on stage around 10 am. To discover local culture, two centres offer tours and shows with a meal cooked in the umu, the earth oven: Te Vara Nui in Muri and Highland Paradise in the hills, with its restored marae. “Island Nights”, evenings of song, dance and drumming with dinner, are also held in hotels on Rarotonga and Aitutaki.

The Cross Island Trek crosses Rarotonga through the mountains and leads to the peak of Te Rua Manga (The Needle, 413 m): 6 km and 3 to 3½ hours of walking, rated moderate to difficult. Starting from the northern side, near Avarua, is recommended; the trail is marked in orange, but Cook Islands Tourism advises going with a guide, and local operators offer guided crossings. On Aitutaki, lagoon cruises stop at One Foot Island (Tapuaetai), where you can have your passport stamped at “the world's smallest post office”.

Muri and Aitutaki lagoons, reefs and whales

Rarotonga is ringed by a reef that encloses a lagoon along much of the coast. At Muri, in the east, glass-bottom boat trips take you snorkelling in a marine reserve; in the south, Titikaveka and Vaimaanga offer beaches and restaurants right on the sand, while the west coast around Arorangi is the place for sunsets. Beyond the reef, dive centres explore drop-offs, canyons and drift dives with turtles and reef sharks. Kitesurfing is at its best from May to October, when the trade winds blow.

Aitutaki's turquoise lagoon is dotted with fifteen motu. Day cruises combine snorkelling, a fish barbecue and stops on the islets, including Honeymoon Island and One Foot Island. From July to October, humpback whales can be seen around the islands. In early December, the lagoon also hosts the Motu2Motu, a 36 km canoe race. To protect the reefs, choose operators who respect wildlife, avoid standing on coral and ask local operators about protected areas.

Getting to Rarotonga and hopping between islands

Rarotonga International Airport (RAR) is the country's gateway. Air New Zealand operates a daily non-stop flight from Auckland in just under 4 hours, with up to three flights a day in high season (June to October), plus a seasonal route from Christchurch. According to Cook Islands Tourism, Jetstar also flies from Auckland and offers direct flights from Sydney and Brisbane; Air Tahiti and Air Rarotonga run four flights a week from Papeete (about 2 h 40), and a weekly flight arrives from Honolulu. From Europe, a connection is therefore needed.

Air Rarotonga links Rarotonga and Aitutaki several times a day, in 50 minutes on average, and serves Atiu and Mangaia three times a week. On Rarotonga, traffic drives on the left, with a 50 km/h limit (30 km/h in Avarua, at Muri Beach and near schools). Two buses circle the island, one clockwise and one anticlockwise, and stop when hailed. A foreign licence in English or with a certified translation is valid for six months; for scooters, a visitor's licence is issued at the police station. Timetables and conditions may change independently of Dem-Tukki: check them before each departure.

Shoulder seasons, trade winds and a budget in NZ dollars

The drier season runs from April to November, averaging around 26 °C; the hot, humid season, from November to March, brings short showers from December to March and temperatures of 22 to 30 °C. Cook Islands Tourism recommends the shoulder months of April, May, September and October. Cyclones can occur from November to the end of April, when safety instructions are broadcast on 88 FM radio. Dengue fever is present: protect yourself against mosquitoes and avoid aspirin if you develop a fever.

The currency is the New Zealand dollar (NZD), supplemented by local coins and notes that are not legal tender outside the Cook Islands. Cook Islands Tourism lists cash machines on Rarotonga and Aitutaki, with fees of around NZD 5 per withdrawal for foreign cards; France Diplomatie mentions them only on Rarotonga, so it is wise to carry cash for Aitutaki. Accommodation ranges from backpacker hostels to a private-island resort. Pack an adaptor (three-pin plugs, 240 V) and allow for the time zone (GMT −10). Prices may change: check them with providers.

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Nearby islands: Tahiti & its Islands, Bora Bora, Fiji and New Zealand.

Photo : Patrick Nunn, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons