Pemba and Mafia

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Far from the bustle of Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia show another side of the Swahili coast: fishing villages, lateen-sailed dhows, patches of primary forest and a handful of discreet lodges. In the north, Pemba, the “green island” of clove trees, drops into the Pemba Channel, one of the wildest dive areas in East Africa. In the south, Mafia is home to Tanzania’s first multi-use marine park and, roughly from October to March each year, to whale sharks feeding off Kilindoni. People come for the sea, the quiet and the authenticity, flying in on light aircraft from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar.

Where are Pemba and Mafia?

Both islands lie off the coast of Tanzania in the Indian Ocean, but nearly 300 km apart. Pemba, about 988 km², sits some 50 km north of Unguja, the main island of Zanzibar, and shares its semi-autonomous government. The deep Pemba Channel separates it from the mainland. Hilly and very green, it has around 540,000 inhabitants; Chake Chake is the administrative centre, Wete the largest town and Mkoani the southern port where ferries arrive.

Mafia is smaller, about 394 km², and lies off the Rufiji River delta, south of Dar es Salaam, across a channel roughly 20 km wide. Unlike Pemba, it belongs to mainland Tanzania (Pwani Region) rather than Zanzibar. Its main town, Kilindoni, has the airstrip, the harbour and the market, while most lodges are in Utende, on Chole Bay, looking out towards the small islands of Chole and Juani inside the marine park.

Swahili history and culture

Pemba has been part of the Swahili coast trade since at least the seventh century. Its ruins tell the story: the town of Chwaka in the north, which thrived between the 11th and 15th centuries, the Ras Mkumbuu ruins west of Chake Chake and the Mkama Ndume fortress at Pujini, the only early fortification known on this coast. The Portuguese and then the sultans of Oman ruled the island, and in the 19th century the Omanis planted the clove plantations that still define it.

Mafia was also a trading stop from the eighth century. Tiny Chole island once controlled part of the trade linked to Kilwa; the Germans, who bought Mafia from the Sultan of Zanzibar in 1890, left buildings now swallowed by strangler figs. On neighbouring Juani, the town of Kua was sacked in the 1820s by Sakalava raiders from Madagascar. On both islands the population is mostly Muslim, so modest clothing is appreciated in villages, especially outside the lodges and during Ramadan.

Things to see and do on Pemba and Mafia

On Pemba, the Pemba Channel draws experienced divers with sheer walls, current-swept passes such as Njao Gap and Fundu Gap, and visibility often between 20 and 40 m. Little Misali island, inside the Pemba Channel Conservation Area, is perfect for snorkelling and picnics. On land, Ngezi Forest Reserve in the north-west shelters two endemics, the Pemba flying fox and the Pemba scops owl. You can also tour clove plantations, the fort-museum in Chake Chake and the Kidike flying fox colony.

On Mafia, the headline experience is swimming with whale sharks, usually from October to February or March, in the channel west of Kilindoni, following a strict no-touch code of conduct. The marine park can be explored by diving or snorkelling from Utende, then by dhow to the Marimbani sandbank at low tide. A trip to Chole island leads to its ruins, dhow builders and fruit bats, while on Juani the Kua ruins and a tidal lagoon complete a very rewarding day out.

Beaches, reefs and nature

Pemba is not an island of long, easy beaches: much of the coast is lined with mangroves, and low tide exposes wide reef flats. The finest stretches of sand are in the north, on the Kigomasha peninsula, especially Vumawimbi, on the edge of Ngezi forest. Elsewhere, boats take you to the sandbanks and islets of the west coast, such as Misali, whose fringing reefs are protected. Water temperatures range from about 25 to 29 °C through the year, so a thin wetsuit is plenty.

Mafia Island Marine Park, created in the mid-1990s, protects coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangroves around Chole Bay. A daily entry fee applies (around US$20 plus VAT per person as a guide, payable by card). From about June to September, turtles nest on Juani’s beaches, and the low-tide sandbanks make for memorable swims. On the west coast, the beach near Kilindoni, outside the park, is the best spot for sunsets and has a few relaxed lodges.

Getting to Pemba and Mafia and getting around

From Europe you fly to Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar with at least one stop. Pemba is then about 35 minutes by air from Zanzibar and an hour from Dar es Salaam with Coastal Aviation or Auric Air, landing at Pemba Airport (PMA) near Chake Chake. Fast ferries also link Zanzibar with Mkoani in roughly two hours, and Tanga on the mainland. Mafia (MFA) is a 30-minute flight from Dar es Salaam; the public ferry from Nyamisati is unreliable.

There is practically no car hire on the islands. Lodges arrange transfers, which can take 90 minutes between Pemba Airport and the northern tip. Locally you travel with a driver, by dala-dala minibus, by boda-boda motorbike taxi or, on Mafia, by bajaji tuk-tuk and bicycle. Light aircraft usually allow about 15 kg of luggage in soft bags. Schedules and rules change, so check with the airlines, ferry companies and authorities before you travel.

Best time to go, budget and entry requirements

The climate is tropical and warm all year. The long rains fall mainly from March to May, and several lodges close in April and May. From June to October, the south-east monsoon (kusi) brings slightly cooler air and wind; from December to March, the kaskazi brings calmer seas and warmer water, ideal for diving. Mafia’s whale sharks are seen mostly from October to February or March. Budgets run high: lodges are often full board, plus domestic flights and park fees.

The currency is the Tanzanian shilling (TZS), though US dollars are widely accepted by lodges. Cash machines are scarce, so withdraw money in Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar. French citizens need a passport valid for six months and a visa (e-visa around US$50 as a guide); other EU citizens generally follow the same rule but should check for their nationality. A mandatory state travel insurance of US$44 per adult is bought for your first point of entry: Zanzibar’s scheme, or the mainland one in force since 1 October 2026.

Essentials

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Nearby islands: Zanzibar, Lamu, Madagascar and Seychelles.

Photo : Marcel Oosterwijk, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons